The Birth of Specialty Coffee How It All Started

In the vast and intricate world of coffee, few developments have been as transformative and influential as the rise of specialty coffee. This phenomenon has not only revolutionized the way we perceive and consume our beloved brew but has also reshaped entire industries and cultures across the globe. Specialty coffee, at its core, represents the pinnacle of quality, craftsmanship, and attention to detail in every step of the coffee production process - from the careful nurturing of coffee plants to the final, artfully prepared cup. As we embark on this exploration of specialty coffee's origins and evolution, we'll uncover the rich tapestry of history, innovation, and passion that has led to the vibrant and diverse coffee culture we enjoy today. This journey will take us from the misty highlands of Ethiopia to the bustling coffeehouses of Europe, and finally to the modern, third-wave cafes that have become fixtures in cities around the world. By understanding the roots of specialty coffee, we gain a deeper appreciation for the complexity and artistry behind every exceptional cup, and the dedicated individuals who have made it their life's work to elevate coffee from a simple commodity to a celebrated craft.

1. Coffee Origins

1.1 The Discovery of Coffee

The story of coffee begins in the lush, verdant highlands of Ethiopia, where legend and history intertwine to paint a captivating picture of coffee's discovery. According to popular lore, it was a young goatherd named Kaldi who first noticed the energizing effects of coffee berries on his flock. Intrigued by the unusual behavior of his goats after they consumed the bright red berries, Kaldi decided to try them himself. Experiencing a surge of energy and alertness, he shared his discovery with local monks, who initially disapproved but soon found the berries useful for staying awake during long hours of prayer.

While this tale is more myth than historical fact, it underscores the profound impact coffee has had on human society since its earliest days. Scholarly research suggests that coffee was indeed first discovered in Ethiopia, specifically in the region of Kaffa, from which coffee derives its name. The earliest concrete evidence of coffee consumption dates back to the 15th century in Yemen's Sufi monasteries, where it was used as an aid to concentration and spiritual intoxication during long nights of devotion.

The transition of coffee from Ethiopia to the Arabian Peninsula marked a crucial turning point in its history. As trade routes expanded and pilgrims traveled to Mecca, coffee spread throughout the Islamic world. By the 16th century, it had reached Persia, Egypt, Syria, and Turkey. The Arabs were the first to cultivate coffee and develop methods for roasting and brewing the beans, laying the foundation for the coffee culture we know today.

1.2 The Journey from Bean to Brew

The transformation of coffee from its raw state to the aromatic beverage we cherish is a testament to human ingenuity and experimentation. In its earliest form, coffee was consumed quite differently from how we enjoy it today. The original method of consumption involved mixing raw, green coffee berries with animal fat to create a protein-rich snack. This practice, still observed in some parts of Ethiopia, provided sustenance and energy for long journeys.

As coffee cultivation spread, new methods of preparation emerged. In Yemen, where coffee gained immense popularity, the beverage was initially prepared by boiling the green coffee beans in water, creating a drink known as "qishr." This method extracted the caffeine and other compounds from the beans but lacked the complex flavors we associate with modern coffee.

The pivotal innovation came with the discovery of roasting. Roasting the coffee beans before brewing dramatically altered the flavor profile, bringing out the rich, aromatic qualities that coffee lovers have come to adore. This process, likely discovered by accident when green beans fell into a fire, marked a significant leap forward in coffee preparation.

The brewing methods continued to evolve as coffee spread to new regions. In Turkey, the introduction of finely ground coffee led to the development of Turkish coffee, where the grounds are boiled directly in water and served unfiltered. This method, still popular today, produces a strong, thick brew with a distinctive texture.

As coffee made its way to Europe in the 17th century, further innovations in brewing techniques emerged. The introduction of cloth filters in France led to clearer brews, while the invention of the percolator in the 19th century offered a new way to extract coffee's flavors. Each step in this journey from bean to brew contributed to the rich tapestry of coffee culture we enjoy today, setting the stage for the later emergence of specialty coffee.

1.3 Coffee in Ancient Civilizations

Coffee's journey through ancient civilizations is a fascinating tale of cultural exchange, religious debate, and social transformation. In the Islamic world, where coffee first gained widespread popularity outside of Ethiopia, the beverage quickly became an integral part of social and religious life. Coffeehouses, known as "qahveh khaneh," sprang up across the Middle East, becoming centers of intellectual discourse, political debate, and artistic expression.

These early coffeehouses played a crucial role in shaping the social fabric of Middle Eastern cities. They were often referred to as "Schools of the Wise," where patrons could engage in lively discussions on topics ranging from poetry to politics. The atmosphere in these establishments was electric, filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the buzz of animated conversation.

However, coffee's rise to prominence was not without controversy. In Mecca, conservative imams banned coffee in 1511, believing it to be an intoxicant forbidden by Islamic law. This ban was quickly overturned by the Ottoman Turkish Sultan Selim I, but it highlighted the complex relationship between coffee and religion that would continue for centuries.

As coffee made its way to Europe in the 17th century, it encountered similar resistance and fascination. In Venice, where some of the first coffeehouses in Europe were established, coffee was initially viewed with suspicion. Local clergy condemned it as the "bitter invention of Satan." However, Pope Clement VIII, upon tasting coffee, was so impressed that he gave it papal approval, effectively blessing its consumption throughout Christendom.

In England, coffeehouses became known as "penny universities," where, for the price of a cup of coffee, patrons could engage in intellectual discussions and access the latest news and gossip. These establishments played a crucial role in the spread of Enlightenment ideas and the development of modern journalism.

The impact of coffee on ancient civilizations extended beyond social and cultural spheres. It also had significant economic implications. The coffee trade became a major source of wealth for regions like Yemen, which held a monopoly on coffee production for many years. As demand grew, European powers sought to break this monopoly, leading to the spread of coffee cultivation to their colonies and fundamentally altering global trade patterns.

Through its journey across ancient civilizations, coffee transformed from a local Ethiopian crop to a global commodity, setting the stage for the complex and diverse coffee culture we see today. This rich history laid the foundation for the later emergence of specialty coffee, which would build upon these centuries of tradition and innovation.

2. Evolution of Coffee Cultivation

2.1 From Wild Harvest to Cultivation

The transition from wild coffee harvesting to systematic cultivation marks a pivotal moment in coffee's history, fundamentally changing how humans interacted with this remarkable plant. In its native Ethiopia, coffee grew wild in the understory of forests, where it was harvested by local people who recognized its stimulating properties. This wild harvesting continued for centuries, with coffee remaining a regional specialty confined to Northeast Africa and parts of the Arabian Peninsula.

The shift towards cultivation began in Yemen in the 16th century. Recognizing the economic potential of coffee, Yemeni farmers started to cultivate coffee plants in managed plantations. This marked the beginning of coffee as an agricultural crop, setting the stage for its global spread. The Yemenis closely guarded their coffee plants, prohibiting the export of fertile beans to maintain their monopoly on production.

However, as demand for coffee grew, particularly in Europe, efforts to break this monopoly intensified. In 1616, the Dutch successfully smuggled a coffee plant out of the port of Mocha, Yemen. This single plant became the parent of the coffee plantations established by the Dutch in their colonies, particularly in Java and Sumatra, which would become major coffee-producing regions.

The cultivation of coffee led to the development of different varieties and processing methods. The two main species of coffee that emerged as commercially viable were Coffea arabica (Arabica) and Coffea canephora (Robusta). Arabica, originating from Ethiopia, is known for its superior flavor profile and is the preferred species for specialty coffee. It thrives at higher altitudes and in cooler climates. Robusta, discovered later in West Africa, is hardier and more disease-resistant but generally considered less flavorful. It grows at lower altitudes and produces higher yields, making it popular for commercial-grade coffee.

The cultivation of these different species in various regions around the world led to the development of distinct flavor profiles associated with specific origins. This diversity in taste and quality would later become a cornerstone of the specialty coffee movement, with coffee enthusiasts seeking out beans from particular regions known for their unique characteristics.

The shift to cultivation also brought about significant changes in processing methods. While natural (dry) processing was the original method used in Ethiopia and Yemen, wet processing was developed in the Dutch colonies in the 17th century. This method, which involves removing the cherry pulp before drying the beans, allowed for more consistent quality and became the preferred method in many regions.

As cultivation techniques improved and spread, coffee production expanded dramatically. By the 18th century, coffee had become a global commodity, with plantations established across the tropics, from the Caribbean to Southeast Asia. This expansion set the stage for coffee's role as a major force in global trade and economics, a position it continues to hold today.

2.2 Global Coffee Trade and Its Impact

The global coffee trade, which emerged in the wake of coffee's cultivation and spread, has had profound and far-reaching impacts on economics, social structures, and even geopolitics. As coffee transitioned from a regional specialty to a global commodity, it became a driving force in the colonial economies of European powers and played a significant role in shaping the modern world.

The coffee trade began in earnest in the 17th century when European nations, particularly the Dutch, British, and French, established coffee plantations in their colonies. This period saw the rise of large-scale coffee production in regions like the Caribbean, South America, and Southeast Asia. The demand for coffee in Europe fueled this expansion, with coffeehouses becoming centers of social and intellectual life in major cities.

One of the most significant impacts of the global coffee trade was its role in the slave trade and plantation economies. Coffee cultivation in the Americas relied heavily on enslaved labor, particularly in Brazil and the Caribbean. This dark chapter in coffee's history had long-lasting social and economic consequences for coffee-producing regions, many of which are still felt today.

The coffee trade also played a crucial role in the economic development of many nations. For example, coffee exports were instrumental in financing the industrialization of Brazil in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Similarly, countries like Colombia, Ethiopia, and Vietnam have relied heavily on coffee exports as a source of foreign exchange and economic growth.

The global nature of the coffee trade led to the development of complex supply chains and trading systems. Coffee exchanges, such as the New York Coffee Exchange (now part of the Intercontinental Exchange), were established to facilitate global trade and price discovery. These institutions have played a significant role in determining coffee prices and influencing production decisions around the world.

The coffee trade has also been a source of geopolitical tension and cooperation. In the 20th century, attempts to regulate the global coffee market led to the creation of international agreements, such as the International Coffee Agreement of 1962. These agreements aimed to stabilize coffee prices and ensure fair returns for producers, though their effectiveness has been debated.

The rise of multinational coffee companies in the 20th century further transformed the global coffee landscape. Companies like Nestlé and Starbucks have had a significant impact on coffee consumption patterns and have wielded considerable influence over the global supply chain.

In recent decades, increasing awareness of the social and environmental impacts of coffee production has led to the development of various certification schemes, such as Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance. These initiatives aim to promote more sustainable and equitable practices in the coffee industry, reflecting growing consumer concern about the ethical implications of their coffee consumption.

The specialty coffee movement, which emerged in the latter part of the 20th century, has also had a significant impact on the global coffee trade. By emphasizing quality and origin, specialty coffee has created new market opportunities for small-scale producers and has helped to shift some of the value in the coffee chain back towards the farmers.

As we move further into the 21st century, the global coffee trade continues to evolve. Climate change poses significant challenges to coffee production in many regions, while changing consumer preferences and the rise of producing country consumption are reshaping demand patterns. These ongoing changes ensure that coffee will remain a dynamic and influential force in the global economy for years to come.

3. The Birth of Specialty Coffee

3.1 Early 20th Century Innovations

The early 20th century marked a period of significant innovation in the coffee industry, setting the stage for the later emergence of specialty coffee. This era saw advancements in both coffee production and consumption, driven by technological progress and changing consumer preferences.

One of the most significant innovations of this period was the development of vacuum packaging for coffee. In 1900, Hills Brothers Coffee began selling coffee in vacuum-sealed tins, which helped to preserve freshness and extend shelf life. This innovation allowed for wider distribution of coffee and helped to standardize quality, albeit at the expense of true freshness.

The early 1900s also saw improvements in coffee roasting technology. The introduction of electric roasters allowed for more precise control over the roasting process, enabling roasters to develop more consistent and nuanced flavor profiles. This period also saw the rise of commercial coffee blends, as roasters sought to create consistent flavor profiles that would appeal to a broad consumer base.

On the consumption side, the invention of the espresso machine in 1901 by Luigi Bezzera in Italy revolutionized coffee preparation. The espresso machine used pressure to force hot water through finely-ground coffee, producing a concentrated shot of coffee with a layer of crema on top. This innovation laid the foundation for the modern café culture and would later play a crucial role in the specialty coffee movement.

Another significant development was the invention of the drip coffee maker. The first electric drip coffee maker, the Wigomat, was invented in Germany in 1954. This invention made it easier for consumers to brew coffee at home, contributing to the widespread adoption of coffee as a daily beverage in many households.

During this period, instant coffee also gained popularity, particularly after World War II. While instant coffee represented a step backwards in terms of quality, its convenience and long shelf life made it a popular choice for many consumers. The prevalence of instant coffee would later serve as a counterpoint against which the specialty coffee movement would define itself.

The mid-20th century also saw the beginnings of a more scientific approach to coffee. In 1958, the Coffee Brewing Institute was established in the United States to study and promote best practices in coffee brewing. This organization, which later evolved into the Specialty Coffee Association, played a crucial role in developing standards and promoting education in the coffee industry.

These early 20th century innovations laid the groundwork for the specialty coffee movement. They improved the consistency and availability of coffee, while also introducing new preparation methods that would become central to specialty coffee culture. However, they also led to a standardization and commodification of coffee that the specialty coffee movement would later react against, emphasizing instead the unique qualities of different coffee origins and the importance of freshness and careful preparation.

3.2 The Specialty Coffee Movement Emerges

The specialty coffee movement, which began to take shape in the 1960s and 1970s, represented a significant shift in how coffee was perceived, produced, and consumed. This movement emerged as a reaction against the standardization and commodification of coffee that had characterized much of the early to mid-20th century.

One of the key figures in the early specialty coffee movement was Alfred Peet, a Dutch-American coffee roaster who opened Peet's Coffee & Tea in Berkeley, California, in 1966. Peet, who had grown up in the coffee trade in the Netherlands, was dissatisfied with the quality of coffee available in the United States. He began roasting coffee in small batches, focusing on darker roasts that brought out the full flavor of the beans. Peet's approach to coffee, which emphasized quality and craftsmanship, would have a profound influence on the development of specialty coffee.

Inspired by Peet, a group of coffee enthusiasts in Seattle founded Starbucks in 1971. While Starbucks would later become a global corporation, in its early years it was at the forefront of the specialty coffee movement, focusing on high-quality, freshly roasted beans.

The term "specialty coffee" itself was coined by Erna Knutsen in a 1974 issue of Tea & Coffee Trade Journal. Knutsen used the term to describe beans of the best flavor produced in special microclimates. This concept of coffee terroir - the idea that the place where coffee is grown imparts unique flavors to the beans - became central to the specialty coffee movement.

In 1982, the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) was formed to promote high-quality coffee and set standards for the industry. The SCAA played a crucial role in developing cupping protocols, green coffee standards, and brewing standards that helped to define what constituted specialty coffee.

The specialty coffee movement also saw a renewed focus on direct relationships between roasters and farmers. Roasters began to travel to origin countries, seeking out high-quality beans and developing personal relationships with producers. This approach, which later evolved into the concept of direct trade, helped to highlight the role of farmers in producing quality coffee and began to address some of the inequities in the traditional coffee supply chain.

Another important development was the rise of the professional barista. As consumers became more interested in high-quality coffee, there was a growing demand for skilled baristas who could properly prepare espresso-based drinks and educate customers about different coffee origins and brewing methods.

The 1990s saw rapid growth in the specialty coffee sector, with a proliferation of small roasters and independent cafes. This period also saw the beginning of what would later be called the "Third Wave" of coffee, characterized by an even greater emphasis on coffee as an artisanal foodstuff, with a focus on single-origin coffees, lighter roasts that highlight the unique characteristics of different beans, and alternative brewing methods like pour-over and siphon brewing.

The emergence of the specialty coffee movement represented a fundamental shift in coffee culture. It elevated coffee from a commodity to a craft product, emphasizing quality, origin, and skilled preparation. This movement laid the foundation for the diverse and dynamic coffee culture we see today, where consumers have access to a wide range of high-quality coffees from around the world and can appreciate the complexity and nuance of this beloved beverage.

3.3 Defining Specialty Coffee

The term "specialty coffee" has evolved significantly since its inception, but at its core, it refers to coffee of exceptional quality that is distinct from commercial-grade coffee. The Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), formed from the merger of the Specialty Coffee Association of America and the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe in 2017, has played a crucial role in defining and standardizing what constitutes specialty coffee.

According to the SCA, specialty coffee is defined first and foremost by its quality. To be considered specialty, green coffee beans must score 80 points or above on a 100-point scale when evaluated by a certified coffee taster (Q Grader). This scoring system, known as cupping, assesses various attributes of the coffee including aroma, flavor, aftertaste, acidity, body, balance, uniformity, clean cup, sweetness, and overall impression.

However, the definition of specialty coffee extends beyond just the quality of the green beans. It encompasses the entire supply chain, from cultivation to roasting to brewing. Here are some key aspects that define specialty coffee:

It's important to note that the definition of specialty coffee is not static. As the industry evolves, so too does the understanding of what constitutes specialty coffee. For example, there's growing recognition of the role that skilled processing can play in creating exceptional coffees, even from beans that might not traditionally have been considered specialty grade.

The rise of specialty coffee has had a profound impact on the coffee industry as a whole. It has raised consumer awareness about coffee quality, increased demand for transparency in the supply chain, and helped to create new market opportunities for coffee farmers. As the specialty coffee movement continues to grow and evolve, it's likely to further transform our relationship with this beloved beverage.

4. Specialty Coffee History

4.1 Growth of Coffee Quality Awareness

The growth of coffee quality awareness has been a gradual but transformative process that has reshaped the entire coffee industry. This increased consciousness about coffee quality can be traced back to the early days of the specialty coffee movement, but it has gained significant momentum in recent decades.

One of the key drivers of this growing awareness was the emphasis placed on origin by early specialty coffee pioneers. By highlighting the unique characteristics of coffees from different regions, these trailblazers began to educate consumers about the diversity of flavors possible in coffee. This focus on origin helped to combat the prevailing notion of coffee as a homogeneous commodity and instead presented it as a product with terroir, much like wine.

The rise of specialty coffee shops played a crucial role in this education process. These establishments often featured rotating selections of single-origin coffees, allowing customers to experience the differences between coffees from various countries and regions. Many cafes also began to offer cupping sessions and brewing classes, providing customers with hands-on experiences that deepened their understanding and appreciation of coffee quality.

The development of more sophisticated roasting techniques also contributed to the growth of quality awareness. As roasters began to experiment with lighter roasts that highlighted the unique characteristics of each bean, consumers were introduced to a wider range of flavors in their coffee. This move away from the dark, homogenized roasts that had dominated the market opened up new possibilities for appreciating coffee's complexity.

The internet and social media have played a significant role in accelerating the spread of coffee quality awareness. Online platforms have allowed coffee enthusiasts to share information, experiences, and recommendations, creating a global community of quality-focused consumers. Blogs, podcasts, and YouTube channels dedicated to coffee have proliferated, providing easily accessible education about all aspects of coffee quality.

The rise of direct trade relationships between roasters and farmers has also contributed to quality awareness. By telling the stories of the farmers and highlighting the unique conditions under which each coffee is grown, roasters have helped consumers understand the factors that contribute to coffee quality and the importance of ethical sourcing.

Competitions and awards have also played a role in raising awareness about coffee quality. Events like the Cup of Excellence, which began in 1999, have helped to identify and promote exceptional coffees, creating a benchmark for quality that has influenced the entire industry.

The specialty coffee industry's emphasis on transparency has been another key factor. By providing detailed information about the origin, processing method, and flavor profile of each coffee, specialty roasters have encouraged consumers to think more critically about the coffee they drink.

As awareness of coffee quality has grown, it has had ripple effects throughout the industry. Many larger coffee companies have introduced premium lines to appeal to more discerning consumers. Even in the commodity coffee sector, there has been a general uplift in quality standards as consumers have become less tolerant of poor quality coffee.

This growing awareness has also led to increased interest in home brewing. Consumers, armed with knowledge about coffee quality, have invested in better home brewing equipment and sought out high-quality beans to use at home. This trend has been particularly noticeable during the COVID-19 pandemic, which saw a surge in home coffee consumption.

The growth of coffee quality awareness represents a fundamental shift in how coffee is perceived and consumed. It has transformed coffee from a simple caffeine delivery system into a complex, nuanced beverage worthy of connoisseurship. As this awareness continues to spread, it's likely to drive further innovations in coffee production, processing, and preparation, ensuring that the quest for quality remains at the heart of the coffee industry.

4.2 Key Milestones in Specialty Coffee

The history of specialty coffee is marked by several key milestones that have shaped the industry and contributed to its growth. These events represent significant shifts in how coffee is produced, prepared, and perceived. Here are some of the most important milestones in the timeline of specialty coffee:

These milestones reflect the evolution of specialty coffee from a niche interest to a global phenomenon. They highlight the industry's ongoing focus on quality, sustainability, and innovation, as well as its ability to adapt to changing consumer preferences and global challenges. As the specialty coffee industry continues to evolve, new milestones will undoubtedly emerge, shaping the future of coffee production and consumption.

4.3 The Role of Third Wave Coffee

The concept of "Third Wave Coffee" represents a significant evolution within the specialty coffee movement, pushing the boundaries of quality, transparency, and consumer engagement even further. This term, believed to have been coined by Trish Rothgeb (then Skeie) in 2002, refers to a approach to coffee that treats it as an artisanal foodstuff, like wine, rather than a commodity.

The "waves" in coffee are often described as follows:

The Third Wave coffee movement is characterized by several key aspects:

The impact of the Third Wave coffee movement has been significant. It has raised consumer awareness about coffee quality and origin, created new market opportunities for coffee farmers, and pushed the boundaries of what's possible in coffee flavor and preparation.

However, the Third Wave has also faced criticism. Some argue that its focus on exotic and expensive coffees has made specialty coffee less accessible. Others point out that the emphasis on light roasts and fruity, acidic flavor profiles doesn't appeal to all coffee drinkers.

As the specialty coffee industry continues to evolve, some observers have begun to speak of a "Fourth Wave," characterized by a more scientific approach to coffee production and preparation, as well as a greater emphasis on sustainability and equity throughout the supply chain.

The Third Wave coffee movement represents a significant chapter in the ongoing story of specialty coffee. By pushing the boundaries of quality and consumer engagement, it has played a crucial role in shaping the modern coffee landscape and setting the stage for future innovations in the industry.

5. Specialty Coffee Guide

5.1 How to Choose Specialty Coffee

Selecting high-quality specialty coffee can be an exciting but sometimes overwhelming experience, given the wide variety of options available. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you choose specialty coffee that suits your taste preferences:

Remember, choosing